I don't think I remembered to mention last time that the chickies are exiting the coop via the ramp, but have not yet figured out that they can go back into the coop on the ramp. Hopefully, based on all that I have read, they will figure it out eventually.
Also, the one thing in looking at the layout of the dual doors, we are going to have some "glitchy" issues when ever the coop is moved. Since we are not moving the coop onto nice level ground with each move, the doors may not open well, overlap at the edges from time to time, and they can be pulled away from the frame by about two inches in the center, if there is some overlap issue going on. That's one reason why we think using cabinet magnets will help minimize some of the "gap" issues. What we are trying really hard to prevent is a rodent/weasel invasion into the coop itself.
The ramp is glitchy too. It rubs a bit on a support piece making it difficult to get it to rise all the way up. D feels that he can cut the ramp off a little to get it to bypass that support piece.
Another issue is the access opening for the run. If a person needs to get into the run, there are no handles inside the frame of the detachable door to pull it into place from the inside to prevent a chick escape. I picked up a medium sized brass handle. L should be able to install that when it warms up. Hoping that will do the trick.
One of the good things that we did at the onset was to weatherize around the doors on the tops and sides plus put the "lip" on the bottom-edge of the upper door so that rain will run off over the bottom door. It worked well during the rain storm last night.
We cut a long branch off the oak tree for the chicks to use as a perch in the run. They have yet to figure out how to use that. We have not yet installed the roost in the coop. They still huddle together under the light, so I don't think that a roosting area is needed.
At this point, instead of wheels, we are using a tall round (4" diam) wood fence post for the purpose moving the coop across the yard. Think of it kind of like using a lever and a round fulcrum (a moving axle?). The post is placed length wise on the ground under the 2x4s of the coop's base and while the post is under the base frame of the coop, using the nesting box to push the coop over it until the post pops out the back end of the coop. I'll try to take a photo the next time we move the coop.
At this point, instead of wheels, we are using a tall round (4" diam) wood fence post for the purpose moving the coop across the yard. Think of it kind of like using a lever and a round fulcrum (a moving axle?). The post is placed length wise on the ground under the 2x4s of the coop's base and while the post is under the base frame of the coop, using the nesting box to push the coop over it until the post pops out the back end of the coop. I'll try to take a photo the next time we move the coop.
Last, but not least. If you wonder where the inspiration came for the creation of the A-framed Coop de Run, D saw it on Ana White's blog. She apparently built/had it built as an inexpensive temporary space until she could build the permanent structure. The modifications that have been added to ours is a larger floor area, a very solid nesting box for two with outside access (this box can also be used to move the coop), and eight weatherized doors. The floor space inside is about eight square feet with plenty of area for a couple of roosting bars (down the center) about four to five inches above the floor. There is also space for feed and water inside the coop. One other helpful feature is the ramp that can be pulled up at night. With the floor lower than the original plan, the ramp is not too steep. Instead of using dowels or rungs for traction on the ramp, we picked up some grip tape, like slip-resistant coating use for wheelchair ramps and on skateboards for a flat surface that's not slick, even in the rain.
