If you plan on raising chicks (from incubated eggs or from the farm/store) it is best to have everything set up first. The recommendations below are for the first two weeks.
I don't consider myself to be an "expert" of chickens. I now (2021) raise approximately 100 chickens per year for meat and eggs for my family and local families. My first year, I lost several chicks over the span of the first week by using "traditional" methods of raising chicks. It was traumatizing. I learned from those mistakes and research. After that first experience, while brooding small numbers of chicks over the next few years, I didn't lose any more chicks. Now that I'm raising a lot of chicks, I do have a few chicks die each year. I have rarely lost more than one or two chicks per year due to health conditions or deformities that are common to chicks, especially chicks that are not raised by their mothers. The reality is that even some chicks raised by a hen will die. I recognize that I can't save them all, but I ensure that all chicks I raise are humanely treated, not over-crowded, are kept clean, safe, warm, in a low-stress location, and well-fed with quality chicken feed designed for the age and development of my chickens. So, let me now explain the initial methods I use for both my layer chicks as well as my meat chicks.
Some items that I use are:
Small Pet Cage for first weeks. Consider actual floor space to accommodate the number of chicks you will have.
For each small chick in the first two weeks, have at least 1/2 square foot per chick of floor space for them to move around freely. For example, six inches by 12 inches of floor space per chick. Remember that when a feeder and waterer takes up space, that cuts into their necessary floor space. So, feeder and waterer make take up a half square foot of space. Brooder warmer may take up one square foot of floor space. After that, for three chicks, allow another 18 inches by 12 inches of floor space. Something that is at least 36 inches by 12 inches, or 19 inches by 24 inches, would meet the early needs of three new chicks, for approximately two weeks. Be ready to expand after two weeks!
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| Cage |
I like these small cages in the first two weeks because they are easy to clean and help the chicks to feel protected with the high side walls.
Old bed sheet/scraps of cotton fabric yardage from fabric store, or old pillow cases. I cut the sheet to fit the dimensions of the floor of the cage. I wash the cloth in scent-free detergent and don't use fabric softeners. (Note - in 2019, I switched to using urine pads for pets that I throw away when it gets too dirty rather than washing every day. There are also ones for babies and elderly that don't have the pheromones. A lot of sizes to choose to fit your needs.)
I rarely encounter pasty butt with my chicks anymore, by using cloth on the floor instead of using shavings the first two weeks. On the average of 25 chicks, I occasionally have one or two chicks that may experience pasty butt within the first three days. Remembering that the chicks were shipped to the store or to your home, they are already stressed, and more susceptible to developing pasty butt. When I pick out my chicks from the store, I have to acknowledge that they are on pine shavings and under heat lamps, It is to be expected that some may have already started to eat the shavings and may be dehydrated still from their long trip. I check to ensure that the chicks do not already have pasty butt at the store, and check to ensure that their eyes are bright. In my first couple of years of raising chicks, I discovered that new chicks will eat the shavings (or anything loose on the floor, be it strings to poop), especially in the first week of life. By my third year of chick raising, I switched to cloth sheets. I also noted that cloth, under foot, makes them less susceptible to leg/foot problems from trying to move through the shavings. This is especially true for meat chicks! There is nothing slick with cotton fabric under foot. Don't Ever Use the following - Newspaper, plastic, and even concrete can be too slick. It can cause them to develop health issues. * When using sheets, ensure that there are NO loose strings for them to try to eat or get wrapped around their toes.
After two weeks, I switch to hemp (fines) shavings. No cloth flooring will be necessary when their legs are stronger.
Red Heat lamp that can be raised/lowered as necessary for warmth.
OR Brooder Warmer.
The temps for newborn chicks to thrive and survive must be adjusted and watched closely.
Heat Lamps - Adjusting the heat lamp is a pain. A thermometer is necessary and the ability to safely adjust the lamp is not always easy. When using heat lamps, fire-safety is extremely important. These lamps can fall, break and cause fires! I can't tell you how many stories I hear about fires and lost chicks from these heat lamps. Last year, a friend lost all his chicks due to a brooder fire caused by a faulty heat lamp.
Warming Plate - They do not require constant checking. No special devices are necessary to regulate the heat. The heat regulator is built in. Having the brooder warmer set to the height of the chicks' back (when standing) is about right for chicks to snuggle under to get warm or hide under when stressed. I am partial to these specially designed warming plates for raising chicks. I rarely lose a chick for health reasons, since switching to the warming plates. Ensure that the ambient room temperature is not below 65°F and not over 85°F. If I start chicks in February/March (when it is still cold outside) I tend to start them inside my house in a low distraction room inside a large box or cage before moving them into the barn or garage.
I started placing a cloth (no loose strings) under the warmer for the chicks to "pooh" on and switch it out twice per day (about every 12 hours). It helps keep the chicks and their space a little cleaner.
Since I finish raising my chicks in the garage or barn, I start setting up that space the first week the chicks are still indoors. I ensure that the area is draft-free and use a small space heater to blow heat under their brooders to help heat the brooder floor. One way to help keep the area warmer can be to hang sheets a few feet away from the brooder to create a "smaller" room around the brooder. I don't use blankets because, when it is all said and done, the sheets will need to be washed. It is easier to wash sheets. Another viable option is to use plastic tarps as temporary walls.
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Small light on timer
If you are not using the heat lamp, and you have the chicks in a location that does not receive natural light, it may be prudent to set up a light that ensures that the chicks are receiving at least 8 to 12 hours of light each day, especially in the late winter months. However, do not use these types of light (white/yellow) non-stop for heat. The chicks can get stressed out by toooo much of this type of light. They need to sleep and this type of light interferes in their natural sleeping routine.
If you are using a red heat lamp, chicks are not as stressed by the red light environment and can even sleep under it, as long as it is not too hot in their brooder space.
Personally, I use an inexpensive fishtank light because it produces the most natural light to mimic the sun, outside, but without the heat. I hook it up to a $5 24-hour timer and set the light to turn on at 6:30 am and turn off at 6:30 p.m. I hang it from the top of the brooder space over their feeding area. When the light goes out, always make certain to check on the chicks to ensure that they have returned to their brooder warmer plate to sleep under for the night. As the days get longer and night gets shorter, I adapt the light timer to be as close to the natural light cycle so that the chicks are fully prepared for the natural lighting cycle when they move outside. (Updated 2022) I currently use Seaoura because it has a built-in timer and allows me to adjust the lighting intensity.
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| LED Fish Tank Light |
First day lighting for newly shipped chicks
I do not turn off the light for the first night after the chicks have arrived or picked up from the local store. I will dim the light a little to reduce the intensity overnight (based on the type of light I am using now.) Not too dim since chicks can't see much in a dimly lit environment. I leave the light on to give them the extra opportunity to get as much water and nutrition as possible without having to spend 8 or 10 or 12 hours in the dark. After the first day, I follow the sunset and sunrise times for timing the lights. When you turn off the light, gently guide the chicks under their warmer and check on them 15 minutes later (without turning on the light) to ensure that all chicks are safely snuggled under their warmer.
Chick Start Feed - non-medicated preferred.
If you are only raising a few chicks, and you are ensuring that they are in a clean, draft-free environment, you may not need to use medicated chick start food. I have, in the past, however, used pro-biotics and electrolytes designed for chicks, to start them off the first few days as they adjust to the new environment. I shy away from medicated animal foods. UPDATE - Over the past two years, and now raising at about 50 chicks twice per year, I gave up using the Probiotics and Electrolytes if I can pick up the chicks from the feed store within a few hours of the chicks arriving in the store. Getting them out of the stressful environment at the store, as soon as possible, has helped with having healthier chicks at the start. I do use RAW apple cider vinegar (about 1 Tablespoon per quart of water) to aid with digestion. Ensuring that the chicks are drinking plenty of water first is crucial.
For the first two weeks, I grind the feed into smaller chunks, the consistency of corn meal. The chicks are less likely to encounter eating issues when the food is smaller. I use a clean food processor, but even a cleaned coffee grinder or blender will do the trick.
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Bragg Organic Apple Cider Vinegar
Quiet and relatively draft-free location
Minimize activity around the pen. Or use something, i.e. large towel pinned to the sides of the cage, to help the chicks to feel protected from the activity. Constant Fear and Stress can cause health issues.
Feeder and Drown-proof Waterer
I prefer the red based feeders and waterers to start with, since chicks (chickens) are instinctively drawn to this color.
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When placing chicks into their brooder case, introduce each chick to the water and feeder by gently dipping just the tip of their beak into the water/feed. They will instinctively open their beaks a bit. Release the chick, then wait and watch. After they settle down, they will, most likely, go back to the waterer and feeder. If, after 10 to 15 minutes, they are just huddled in a corner and not eating/drinking, you might want to re-introduce them to the food and water. For chick health reasons, do not use ice-cold water. Chicks have a preferred "water temp" that is about 75°F. They may not drink water that is warmer than 85°F. (Adult chickens prefer much cooler water.)
Note - if you are having chicks shipped to your home, the very first thing you want to do is introduce your overly stressed chicks to water (no food) for the first 30 to 60 minutes to ensure that they all are successfully drinking and rehydrating. I also introduce them to their warmer during this time. I place the waterer close to their warmer so that they can come out, get a drink and go right back under the warmer. You can encourage them to come out for a drink by tapping your finger nails onto the hard plastic a few times, to create a bit of a clicking/tapping noise. They are drawn to this tapping noise.
I flush out the waterer several times per day since chicks introduce feces into their water by stepping in and standing on the edge. Keeping the water clean helps to reduce the chance of coccidiosis and other potential infections.
Baby chicks will not need grit at the onset if their food is the "starter feed" or "start and grow" style of crumbles. Since I grind their crumbles, there is absolutely no need for the grit. They would need grit if you are feeding them other things, like seeds (not recommended) or home-made feeds, which might necessitate the need for tiny grit. While you may be tempted to feed other things to your chicks as treats, the better type of treat for them is actually scrambled eggs (no salt or butter). Hey, they were raised on "eggs" inside of the egg!
DustBathing
Some chicks like to start dustbathing at an early age. Using a small saucer or even a Rubbermaid lid with a little sprinkling of #1 grit mixed into fine hemp shavings is a great introduction for your chicks to dustbathing. Be careful not to use river, desert, or ocean sand as it can have bacteria and silica in it. When chickens are rolling around in the sand, it creates clouds of dust that they breathe in. These types of sand are unsafe for chicks. If you still want to use the fine sand, be sure to mix it with a little fresh dirt from your garden to reduce the dust component, and heat it on a pan in your oven to kill the bacteria. Cool it before introducing it to your tiny chicks. Here are some other suggestions about chickens and dustbathes. 7 Ingredients For The Perfect Chicken Dust Bath
Other baby chick items to consider can be located on MyPetChicken.com
After Two Weeks
Make certain to have a larger brooding space for your chicks set up by approximately 10 days that you can transition your little ones into. If you plan on providing larger feeders and are switching from the drown-proof waterer or to nipple waterers, be certain to retrain you chicks for those new pieces so that they comprehend that the food and water is still there but being delivered in a different format. You no longer need to grind the feed crumbles after 10 days. I ensure that each chick has at least 1 square foot of brooder space by two weeks of age, and by four weeks of age, that each chick has 1.5 to 2 feet of brooder space until they go outside at six weeks of age (after their feathers fully come in on their heads). The first day after you transition your chicks into their larger space, check on them frequently to ensure that they are finding their food, water, and warmers successfully. Listen for any distress calls, chicks lost/confused out alone in the brooder, and watch for any huddling
I cannot stress enough how important it is to have the appropriate size of coop/house and pen for your chickens already in progress before you pick up your new baby chicks. It is amazing how quickly chicks grow and will need a safe place to live outside within six to eight weeks of arriving at your home.
* I started this post in 2015 and have updated it every year or two to include new discoveries and information. (Last Updated 2/8/23)
